VINAMERICAS | NEWS
Montilla-Moriles, the “Other Sherry” you haven’t heard of, but should!
May,9th 2025
Both Sherry and wines from the Spanish appellation of Montilla-Moriles come from the hot, dry and sunny southern Spanish region of Andalusia. Both of them employ the same ageing technique of the soleras and criaderas system in which barrels are stacked on top of each other. The oldest wine is on the lowest row from which it is partially drawn, the amount used for bottling then being replenished from younger wines on the higher rows. Despite these similarities, real differences exist.
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Wines from Montilla-Moriles have been considered superior among many experts to those from Sherry in several respects, particularly when evaluating purity of expression, natural production methods, and grape character. One of the most compelling arguments in favor of Montilla-Moriles wines is their reliance on the Pedro Ximénez grape. Unlike the more neutral Palomino grape used in Sherry, Pedro Ximénez naturally produces wines with greater body, richer aromas, and deeper flavor complexity—even in dry styles. This gives Montilla-Moriles wines a distinctive character that doesn’t rely as heavily on winemaking intervention to be expressive.
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Another important distinction is the minimal need for fortification in Montilla-Moriles wines. Thanks to the hotter, drier climate, Pedro Ximénez grapes reach higher natural sugar levels, which ferment to around 15% alcohol without the need to add grape spirit. This natural strength allows for biological aging under flor yeast just like Fino Sherry, but with less manipulation. As a result, the wines retain a more seamless integration of alcohol and flavor, often perceived as more elegant and balanced than their fortified Sherry counterparts.
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Additionally, Montilla-Moriles wines often display a broader range of textures and sweetness levels, with less oxidative harshness in many aged examples. Their aged styles, such as Amontillado and Oloroso, offer great depth but with a silkier mouthfeel and a richer, more integrated sweetness—especially in Pedro Ximénez dessert wines, which are often considered among the best in the world. The natural richness of the grape and climate gives these wines a luscious, authentic quality that stands out when compared to the often more austere profile of Sherry.
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Finally, Montilla-Moriles wines benefit from a sense of authenticity and regional pride that is less commercialized than the Sherry industry, which has long been dominated by large export houses and standardized practices. Many producers in Montilla-Moriles maintain a more artisanal, small-scale approach, allowing for a closer connection between the vineyard, the cellar, and the final wine. For enthusiasts seeking wines that reflect place, grape, and time with less industrial influence, Montilla-Moriles often offers a more sincere and compelling experience than mainstream Sherries.
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VINAMERICAS is proud to import the pre-eminent producer from Montilla Moriles, PÉREZ BARQUERO. Founded in 1905 by brothers José, Julián, and Emilio Pérez Barquero, Bodegas Pérez Barquero is situated in the prized albariza-rich vineyards of the Sierra de Montilla and Moriles Alto. The winery emphasizes traditional methods, including aging wines in tinajas (large earthenware vessels) and its dedication to quality has earned it international recognition, including the only 100-point rating from the Wine Advocate for any wine from the appellation. Discover our portfolio of these amazing wines HERE.